The Future of Fashion and Sustainability – A view from the panel; a view from the audience.
Written by Isabella Rose Davey and Benedicta Banga
Isabella Rose Davey has worked extensively in the fashion industry globally. While there may be much to be wary of, she notes an optimistic takeaway from her evening at King’s…
The question of sustainability in fashion will forever be an incredibly unconquerable mountain, the paradox of two words set up a seemingly impossible negotiation between two worlds.
However, the critical juncture that the fashion industry finds itself in through its leading role in the climate crisis means the conversation cannot continue to be sidelined - the vital importance of new solutions in all their manifestations must be explored.
The purpose of this panel talk aimed to be one small ripple in this conversation - less with a purpose to highlight actions needed so much as open the discussion in the direction of how can change be implemented. With the panel built of three figures of varying backgrounds, knowledge and insight, each panellist aimed to activate a new perspective within the audience - and in turn open a dialogue with the attending students of one of the greatest universities in the world.
The fashion industry will be lost if it does not begin to garner thought leaders from varying industry backgrounds and knowledge. No industry is an island, and the urgency of collaboration paired with knowledge sharing is a vital tenet that could quite possibly be the key to the required modes of thinking in order to tackle the crisis it faces.
In this regard, while fashion has been a wildly criticised industry for the impossible hoops it demands of young people determined to enter the industry - expensive masters from preferred universities, numerous months, even years of unemployed labour, minimum-wage level roles for those that do grab a hold of a rung on the so-called career ladder - what the results have proven to be is a wild lack of innovation, with a desperate need for disobedient thinking and cross-pollination from other industries. The introspective nature fashion has thus fostered within its own eco-system has resulted in a spiral, that sadly at times feel like it is only driving downwards.
This reflection is not meant to dampen an industry that, for us as panellists, have found against it all thriving inspiration from: more so it is about exposing the rotting floorboards so that new planks from other trees can be laid to future-proof the structure henceforth.
It was the audience itself that felt the most compelling about this talk - the questions, the insights, the research and in some cases the inventions that were espoused during the Q&A and in the informal conversations that followed. It ignited for us, the guests that were incredibly honoured to spend an evening in the company of such a hotbed of thinkers, wider thoughts about who will be shaping the future of the creative landscape that we love so much. The answer for that evening felt like it lay in the room.
So what was ‘in the room’?
The discussion on the night not only brought together an array of attendees to quiz the panellists, but it also made clear five key themes in the eyes of Benedicta Banga…
The Power of Continued Dialogue
While it's easy to dismiss industry talks as just another conversation in an already dialogue-heavy space, I've come to appreciate how these discussions serve as crucial entry points for newcomers to the sustainability conversation. Each panel brings fresh perspectives and helps to expand the network of engaged stakeholders working toward a more sustainable fashion future. Not only do such events stir fresh perspectives and generate a host of new introductions. They also serve to nourish networks that may already exist but that benefit immensely from ongoing connection. In my case for example, it was a pleasant surprise to meet with Dina Khalifa, a Luxury Brand Management Lecturer. While we have been in touch virtually over a shared interest in sustainable luxury, the opportunity to speak in person made the evening all the more rewarding. Dina’s fellowship work with the Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership (CISL) for CHANEL, to analyse luxury's role in developing more equal societies, is admirable and provides valuable insights for the industry. It also demonstrates the value of in-person connections and serendipitous moments.
Creative Directors: Influence vs. Constraints
One of the most compelling discussions of the evening centred on Creative Directors and Designers in the fashion industry. The panel highlighted their significant potential for influence while acknowledging the growth-oriented systems that often constrain their ability to implement sustainable practices. This insight particularly resonates with my ongoing dissertation on ‘Navigating the Future of Sustainable Luxury’, where I'm examining how Creative Directors influence sustainable luxury within the broader framework of Luxury Brand Management.
Fair Wages and Worker Rights and Ensuring Just Transitions
The discussion of garment worker wages struck a particular chord with me. Through my work mapping the Sustainable Luxury Partnership Ecosystem, I've been tracking brands' collaborations with fair wage organisations. This panel reinforced the importance of these initiatives while providing new perspectives on their implementation, impact and the continued role consumers play in shopping with responsible brands. Relatedly, a critical theme throughout the discussion was the importance of protecting livelihoods, particularly those of Global South workers, as the industry transitions away from fast fashion. Any transformation in the fashion industry must prioritise equitable outcomes for all stakeholders involved.
The Paradox of Circular Business Models
A fleeting, but equally important, point of discussion was how certain circular business models might inadvertently fuel overconsumption – the very issue they aim to address. The panel touched on degrowth as a potential solution. A theme that resonates elsewhere and which I have been increasingly involved in since completing my economics course at the University of Oxford's Department for Continuing Education on Growth and Degrowth. I'm eager to explore how these concepts might apply specifically within the sustainable luxury context.
Moving from Discussion to Action
While these discussions are invaluable for sharing ideas and building understanding, their true worth lies in the actions they inspire – something that echoed in Olya’s impassioned defence of the potential for anger, rather than hope, to drive action. Through my network of Women in Sustainable Luxury, I'm planning to organise collaborative opportunities to transform these insights into practical initiatives. If you're interested in sponsoring or participating in these workshops, I welcome you to get in touch.
A special thanks to all the panellists for their insightful comments, for the skilful moderations of the discussion by Ane Cornelia Pade and for excellent organisation by Sophie Harbour and the King's Entrepreneurship Lab team.
Isabella Rose Davey
Isabella is the COO at Copenhagen Fashion Week, an organisation dedicted to enacting positive and ambitious change in the fashion industry. She has overseen the strategic growth of CPHFW to its global position as the 5th international fashion week and has worked extensively in the UK fashion industry, having previously headed up Emerging Talent at the British Fashion Council. Isabella has consulted for the likes of Woolmark and writes for a number of publications across design, culture and fashion including Modern Weekly, Ark Journal and Vogue Scandinavia.
Benedicta Banga
Benedicta is an alumnus of the EMBA at Cambridge Judge Business School, University of Cambridge and the Practice Lead for Fluxury a research and futures practice dedicated to sustainable luxury. Benedicta is also the Founder of Women in Sustainable Luxury; a global network of sustainable luxury leaders and the previous Head of Strategy and Business Planning, Jaguar Land Rover.